In the shadow of Retezat

narrow path winds its way from Sălașu de Sus up into the hills, past orchards, pastures and clear streams. At the end of the path lies Peștera, a small village that seems untouched by the hustle and bustle of the outside world. Colourful beehives adorn the gardens, and the courtyards smell of fresh hay and apple cider.

Peștera has only a few dozen houses, scattered between green meadows and the foothills of the Retezat Mountains. The people here live in close harmony with nature – they milk their cows at sunrise, repair fences and tend their gardens. Those who come here are not looking for sights, but for peace and quiet – and stories.

One of them is told by an old man with a weather-beaten face. When asked about the area, he points his stick towards the hills: ‘Up there, above the forest, once stood the castle of Sălaș,’ he says. ‘From there, you could see the whole valley – all the way down to Hațeg.’ He talks about knights who once rode through these valleys, about hidden paths that shepherds and soldiers used to cross the mountains. As he talks, his gaze glides over the landscape – quiet, vast, almost unchanged for centuries. | Romania